Zin: the All American Grape

This spring, the California Senate voted to make Zinfandel the state's "historic wine." Senator Carole Midgen had wanted to name it the "official" state wine, but a lot of people growing other kinds of grapes objected. And while those growers have a point, Zinfandel is the one grape where California has really been able to set a standard without looking elsewhere. Cabernet and Merlot growers looked to Bordeaux; Pinot Noir and Chardonnay growers had Burgundy. But Zinfandel was ours.

Does that mean the grape itself is native to North America? Actually, no. Most experts believe Zinfandel came to the U.S. in the early 19th century. It traveled west, and by the 1880s it was widely planted in California, quenching the thirst of many of the Gold Rush miners.

Only in the past few years have we been able to determine Zin's origins. It turns out to be genetically identical to Primitivo, a grape grown in Apulia, the heel of Italy's boot. However, the real source of both Zinfandel and Primitivo seems to be Croatia, where it is known as Crljenak Kastelanski. Perhaps it never achieved fame there because no one could pronounce it.

California's winemakers neglected Zinfandel for a long time, using it primarily for jug wines and, in the past few decades, White Zinfandel - really just an off-dry rosé made from the same grapes as red Zin. In the 1980s people began to give Zinfandel another look. Once they started treating it with a little respect, they found that the vines - many of which were over 50 years old (and old vines typically lead to better, more concentrated wines) - could make some very special and individual wines.

The Lodi area in particular has lots of old Zin vineyards. Paso Robles, Napa, Sonoma, and even Mendocino also stand out for the quality of their Zinfandels, but almost every Californian wine region has at least one example of "Zinning" successfully - another reason it might deserve special recognition from the state.

Todays Zinfandels are usually rich, full-bodied wines, with lots of fruity characteristics: boysenberry, blackberry, and raspberry are all typical aromas in a Zin. Aside from the fruit notes, suggestions of spice - clove, pepper, licorice - are also common, as is a touch of chocolate. They are generally low-acid wines, with soft tannins, and this velvety, lush mouthfeel is a big part of their appeal. Even when they're complex, Zinfandels are exuberant, fun wines, making them enjoyable on many levels.

That luxurious mouthfeel also makes Zin eminently suited to a very pleasurable part of American cuisine: Barbecue. The mix of sweetness and spice of a typical barbecue sauce finds a great foil in most Zins - the low tannins and the fruit flavors complement the heat of the dish. It also complements a lot of Mexican and even Asian recipes for the same reason. Like many reds, it lends itself to meat in general; burgers, sausages, and steaks all find a hearty partner in Zinfandel. The sweetness of roasted peppers or pungent herbs like rosemary can also bring the wine together with white meats like pork or chicken. Hard, mature cheeses like Cheddar, Parmesan, and Gouda also take to Zinfandel very well.

Its rich, jammy character also makes Zinfandel one of the only dry wines that goes well with chocolate, whether in cakes, truffles, or on its own. That makes Zin one of a few wines that you can keep on hand from the start of your meal all the way through dessert. It's official: Zinfandels are a good choice anytime.

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