Unpredictable Wine Weather

Ah, Spring. Blue skies and warm sunshine one day, and cold, drizzly rain the next. Winter makes for easy wine choices; most of us turn to hearty reds to stave off the cold. Similarly, crisp, chilled white wines are just the thing for cutting the summer heat. But what about those in-between days?

A lot of other wine drinkers would say, "do what we do all year long: drink what you like," which is what you should be doing. Spring, nonetheless, is a good time to keep a variety pack around: some rich reds for days when winter seems to be hanging around forever - think Shiraz, Zinfandel, Cabernet - and some whites in the fridge for a summer preview.

There are also some wines that hit the spot between the two: rich, full-bodied whites that will warm you inside, even if the wines themselves are chilled, and reds that are light to medium-bodied, elegant and smooth. Interestingly, the two grapes best suited for this balance both originate in Burgundy, where a Californian would find the cooler climate itself almost permanently Spring-like.

The Best of Both Worlds

Chardonnay often seems like a white grape pretending to be red; in warmer climes like California and Australia it can make a rich wine with all the weight and substance you could ask for. That's one of the reasons winemakers sometimes age or even ferment their Chardonnays in oak barrels; many white grapes would be overwhelmed, but a well-made Chardonnay, such as the Andretti Selections 2004, Chardonnay takes it stride, integrating the oak's flavors and profiting from the structure and power oak-aging can bring.

Pinot Noir is the red grape of Burgundy and, while Chardonnay seems capable of growing just about anywhere, Pinot is a pickier grape. But when a grower plants it in the right place, a place cool enough for the grape to mature slowly and evenly, it can make a wine with a wide range of flavors from bright red fruits like cherry, raspberry, and strawberry, to earthy aromas such as mushroom. It also retains a higher level of acidity than many reds, which keeps it firm and fresh. This month's newest Pinot Noir, the Silver Spur, is representative of its Los Carneros roots. The fog that San Francisco is known for helps cool the grapes, giving it the long, moderate growing season that Pinot Noir likes.

Spring offers the best of both worlds - hot and cold, sun and rain - and Chardonnay and Pinot Noir do the same. But if a big red wine or a crisp white still tickles your fancy, you can always tell people that you still feel that winter chill, or you're taking an advance on your summer vacation.

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