Sauvignon Blanc Takes Center Stage

For a long time, Sauvignon Blanc just couldn't get any respect. It was widely planted, but often got blended into anonymous "jug" wines. But now, people are more and more excited about the varietal; what changed?

Think of the grape as a character actor who's been miscast for a long time. People kept giving it the wrong roles. It plays really well for more subtle parts: it's a Kevin Spacey, not a Tom Hanks. And it plays differently around the world.

Sauvignon Blanc's Wide Range

Marlborough and Sancerre are the two poles of Sauvignon with other countries filling out the range in between these extremes.

New Zealand gave Sauvignon Blanc a role it could sink its teeth into. In Marlborough, producers like Sileni began making a fruity style of Sauvignon Blanc, with tropical aromas of mango and passion fruit leaping out of the glass.

In France, the Loire Valley-style avoids tropical fruit aromas in favor of grass, grapefruit, and minerality. Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé are the most famous Sauvignon Blanc regions of the Loire, but there are others, including Touraine, where we found the Chateau de la Roche.

The Southern Hemisphere in particular sat up and took notice of New Zealand's success; both South Africa and Chile are now making some noteworthy Sauvignon Blanc wines. South Africa's renditions like our Bush Vine tend to be light and less overtly fruity than their New Zealand cousins, whereas Chile's wines are often fuller-bodied.

In California, wineries used to treat Sauvignon Blanc like its movie-star brother Chardonnay. The extra oak weighed down its freshness and vitality. Nowadays many of the Golden State's winemakers have reined in or even omitted the oak-aging, giving Sauvignon the room to do its own thing; try the Laughing Raven or Brassfield and check out those bold fruit flavors.

Sauvignon Blanc's Leading Foods

Well-made Sauvignon Blanc is a great summer wine, refreshing and mouth-watering. It also suits summer food, performing very well in the "ensemble cast" of a meal. Its acidity balances with salads and their vinaigrette dressings, also higher in acid. Sauvignon Blanc goes great with shrimp, fish, and other light foods. The refreshing fruit flavors also match well with spicy Asian dishes; Sauvignon Blanc cools it with its fruity flavors whereas red wine or oaky white wine would heighten the heat.

When you pair a wine with a dish, the sauce is also important. Light, citrus sauces complement Sauvignon's crispness - if you reach for a lemon wedge when you look at your plate, Sauvignon Blanc is probably a good match. Even though chicken or pasta with a cream-based sauce can seem heavy in hot weather, a Sauvignon can make a nice contrast and lighten the dish. Instead of matching the sauce in flavor and richness, it cuts through the cream like a laser, cleansing and refreshing the palate.

Sauvignon Blanc's Supporting Cast

There are three traditional Sauvignon Blanc pairings: goat cheese, asparagus, and artichokes. The tang of goat cheese finds a friend in the grassy notes of the wine. Asparagus and artichokes are traditionally considered "wine killers;" they both contain a natural compound called cynarin, which can make wine taste metallic. Somehow Sauvignon Blanc's acidity tames the cynarin and the wine and the vegetables both come through the experience flavorful and light.

This year, give supporting actor Sauvignon Blanc a starring role in your blockbuster summer; it's ready for its close-up.

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